Saturday, April 22, 2023

Kentucky Cream Candy

Cream Candy from My Country Table
Growing up in small-town Kentucky I experienced some of the best home cooking that exists. We didn't have fast food, and the restaurants we had were mostly little diners.  That meant that everyone I knew cooked, and they did it from scratch.  I remember frozen TV dinners, but they were a treat.  We ate home-cooked, made-from-scratch meals every night.  My mother made meat loaf and macaroni with a homemade cheese sauce and topped with buttery, toasted bread crumbs.   Her mother wasn't a great cook, but I always loved her coleslaw.  My aunt Doris made an incredible blackberry jam cake.  Dad makes the best gravy.

With food and mentors like that I learned to cook at an early age.  Betty Henderson taught me to bake peanut butter cookies and how to flip pancakes before I could even reach the stove.  Mom taught me to make things like divinity and cabbage au gratin. The first cake I ever baked was in a wood burning oven with my aunt Joyce. 

I can, and have, cooked just about everything.  I make a pretty good transparent pie from a family recipe. I love to bake cheesecakes and make candy.  In the winter I relish a big pot of soup or stew.  Summer finds me crafting salads for myself, and dishes with fresh vegetables for anyone who will eat them.  I enjoy cooking, but there are, regrettably, two things I just never quite got.  One is my dad's gravy.  He's shown me.  I've practiced.  I just can't get the hang of it.  

The other is Lorene's cream candy.

Cream candy is a Kentucky specialty.  It seems so simple because the only ingredients are sugar, heavy cream, vanilla, and water.  It's pulled like taffy, cut, and then left to sit overnight.  That's when the magic happens.  The candy transforms into a delightful airy confection that will absolutely melt in your mouth.   

My step-grandmother, Lorene Fultz, made incredible cream candy, and one of the last days I spent with her involved her showing me how to make it.  She boiled the mixture and knew when it was ready without even using a candy thermometer.  I hauled the marble slab in from outside, where it had been chilling in the winter air, and she poured the mixture onto the cold marble.  When it was time, we pulled it together.  Then it was cut and left to do its magic.  The next day I had cream candy to enjoy as I drove home to Cookeville.  

I tried to make cream candy after that.  I got a small marble slab I could put in the freezer when I made it.  Mine just never worked.  I don't know if I didn't pull it long enough or what happened.  I just know that I tried it three or four times, and it never came out right.  

I found a good tutorial on cream candy at My Country Table.  If I can find a marble slab, perhaps I'll try it again someday.  Until then, I have some delicious memories.


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